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Paris is widely regarded as the capital of the fashion industry. So our last stop on the Fashion Month Tour is the residences of some of the biggest luxury brands, from Christian Dior to Louis Vuitton, as well as talented young talents. Follow our review of the best that Paris Fashion Week Spring 2021 has to offer.
Sarah Burton refined the spring/summer offerings into four words: “Back to London, go home”. The brand has always been exhibited in Paris, but its founder and creative director was born in London and grew up here. “Shape, silhouette and volume, the beauty of naked clothes is back to the essence, this world full of emotion and interpersonal,” Burton explained.
Creative director Anthony Vaccarello (Anthony Vaccarello) started his dream of the season in the desert. Of course, he wanted ease, a cool factor and some fluffy Mayor stripes. He explained: “I want to focus on the essence of things. I think this is a sign of the times. But I don’t want anything to be dim or heavy. The desert to me symbolizes a yearning for tranquility and open space. The pace slows down. The clothes are also softer, the spirit of the collection is softer, and I took it off.” The result is a mini dress, lazy sheer dress, men’s style items, and overall fashionable, wearable items. We can Wander around in a mid-century modern desert house. -Kerry Pieri
Celine traveled to the Louis II Stadium in Monaco to produce albums and videos for the spring of 2021, but the series fits well with the refined appearance of the classic American preparatory school Hedi Slimane over the years. From a sophisticated navy or tweed suit jacket with sports shorts and denim shorts, to a printed maxi skirt, plus an oversized sports jacket, plus the buttons of boyfriend jeans, this is all The Preppy Handbook. Oversized bags, hats and short T-shirts are covered with logos. Slimane can tell the story of the entire costume on the runway, and when you leave the runway, you will find that he actually provides you with an excellent interpretation of any particular piece you can think of-from loose denim to leather jackets and cat bow tops . –Kerry Pirie
Raf Simons is a movie fan. In fact, most fashion designers are (see Chanel). But his views on the film industry are not as sweet and innocent as others. It is dark, sinister and sinister, full of anxiety. To give an example: his spring collection of 2021 is called “Young Dreams”, which quotes many movies from different eras, but these movies are focused on rebellious young people. From Barbarella’s PVC corset (1968) and Hair’s psychedelic print (1979) to high school classic T-shirts and hoodies, such as The Breakfast Club (1985) and Scream (1996), Simmons has adopted all these differences The elements, they become exquisite series that not only pay tribute to the screen, but also reflect the tension and uncertainty of the Zers generation (and frankly everyone). -Barry Samaha
Lacoste is rooted in tennis and has played for the French national team for more than 50 years at the Olympics. His file in sportswear is rich and abundant. Creative director Louise Trotter took full advantage of it in the spring of 2021. From the chic tennis sweaters and skirts, to the nautical windbreaker with a turtleneck sweater, to the fashionable jogging trousers under the horn boots, all sports and pastimes have been reproduced. She played around with dead ends, exaggerated silhouettes and prints, and showed the appearance through images taken off the beaten track in Paris. -Barry Samaha
When things become meaningless, sometimes you just need to solve it. That’s the driving idea behind Rei Kawakubo’s latest work, the Dissonance of Conflict Material. Various textures are woven and layered, side by side in combinations you have never seen before (“illogical” in the accompanying notes). A layer of plastic film is spread up and down, left and right, and above, while the twisted rope grips the neck and shoulders tightly. The latter may be crucial to the structure or simple decoration of the garment-who can tell? Pop culture has exacerbated the chaos, and the only prints are expressive Mickey Mouse and Japanese Bearbrick dolls (plus polka dots, although any Disney fan worthy of Disneyland fans can tell you that this is Minnie’s). The brand’s Tokyo headquarters displayed the entire collection with red lights. Although the creepy effect may be to capture the feeling doomed in 2020, you can also think of it as a calm shot. The light in the dark room always makes things look clearer. Leah Melby Clinton
If you ever dreamed of becoming a member of an iconic music band, shaking, shaking or sliding on the microphone stand, then your stage outfit has arrived. Junya Watanabe more or less made a world tour wardrobe for the four fictional stars he saw in his memories, and even gave us a name: The Spangles. The clothes are simple, smooth and light: jumpsuits, capes, billowing dresses. Even things that should be heavier, such as trenches and motorcycle jackets, can maintain a light feel. In some cases, they are actually translucent. The charm is limitless, all types of charm can meet your needs, whether it is a tie or sandals are suitable, but the idea of being suitable for The Spangles will make every work full of fun. The large dose of sequins will certainly not hurt. —Leah Melby Clinton (Leah Melby Clinton)
Escape from reality played a major role in Bruno Sialelli’s 2021 spring collection. The designer not only attended Shanghai Yu Garden, a picturesque national landmark built in the 16th century, but also emphasized the style that was popular in the 1920s-a dazzling decade. However, this is a journey in the past, just a starting point: he extracted patterns (the interaction of bright floral patterns and light and dark colors) and time periods (waist circumference, fluffy sleeves and decorative signs of furniture) from the venue. Designer Armand Albert Rateau and Jean Dunand) and make it novel. Think of layered hoop skirts and opera jackets with shawl collars, paired with flat leather or sequined boots. -Barry Samaha
You can always rely on Louis Vuitton to end Paris Fashion Week. The autumn features a 200-person choir dressed in historical costumes from the 15th century to 1950, while in the spring, the brand’s creative director Nicolas Ghesquière made a powerful statement about the future of fashion without gender. What kind of wound can dissolve men and women? What kind of wardrobe will he/he wear? These are the questions he asked himself. The answer looks a lot like Ghesquière’s 80s encounter sci-fi styling, but in the fashion show of the futuristic LVMH La Samaritaine department store, people have a new DIY style for the appearance of fashion. The Blazers have stretchable linings, while pleated chinos and wide-leg pants are generously cut and sometimes tightened by thick belts. The belt is also very convenient when paired with a graphic print dress, helping to “deceive” Ghesquière’s famous A-shaped silhouette. All content reads “You you you”, and the Vote message tee that opens the show is undoubtedly something that all Americans can accept. -Alison S. Cohn
The world of Stella McCartney is a place where professionals with a working attitude live. Please consider equipping the meeting room with exquisite oversized suits and providing an ideal stylish partition for brunch. However, her spring 2021 collection is full of escapism. Shell and coral printed satin dresses, flap shoulder bags and flip-flops are reminiscent of seaside destinations. For most people, these are just fond memories of the present. The lady with the title McCartney A to Z Manifesto explained during the lock-up what her brand did to reduce the environmental impact (from the beginning of the accountability system to the end of zero waste), the series Made of 65% sustainable materials, such as recycled nylon and forest-friendly viscose. The McCartney brand always focuses on how fashion responds to the climate crisis, which makes her dream and vision completely based on reality. -Barry Samaha
That is the superstar on the Sacai runway. The stripes are big, the dress is loose, and the sleeves are long. Of course, genius is to prevent the unnecessary whirlwind and drape, so that it is not affected by the mess or disorder. This is the black hand of Abe Chitose. The splicing, cutting and combination that Sacai is famous for are done so skillfully that it is almost impossible to tell what is layered, what is connected, what can be broken down and what will not be torn. From a philosophical point of view, you are deeply moved by the information that different parts become one, and the pure fashion that inspires matching is what we all desire. The eye-catching appearance includes a white denim jacket and a tailor-made coat bottom. A dress jacket in a Canadian dress; and a satin corset in a tight evening dress, imaginatively tied to pants that look like wide-leg pants. Even if Shinzo Abe is treated as the Dr. Frankenstein of the runway, these creations are nothing terrible. Leah Melby Clinton
Tango requires two steps: This seems to be the information in the second and final chapter of SWALK. This is the fashion film Maison Margiela directed by Nick Knight, the creative director John Galliano (John Galliano) in It premiered during Digital Fashion Week in July. Or as stated in the performance notes: “One person’s dependence on another… is a vital duet dance activated by instinct and trust.” Galliano has been thinking about the interdependence between people during the pandemic, and How our collective future is inextricably linked. In the spring of 2021, he expanded Recicla’s product range, which is a carefully restored new green series with a new green label and a special white label. There are more beautiful wicker bags, lace tops, beaded evening bags from the 1960s, and red velvet tango high heels that you can understand from the visual world. -Alison S. Cohn
Miu Miu displayed its spring products on the oval stadium built by AMO, which shows that fashion shows and sports events are both “stages of observation.” Leaving Miuccia Prada for track and field sports is a brain experience. Audience, the entire audience is a digital audience, but as part of the experience, their existence is: three digital screen lounges show women from all over the world. This sports theme has continued to the runway. At night, I met jersey-inspired items. Shorts and sneakers were dressed in coats, rugby stripes and miniskirts, while short shorts appeared between swimwear and running clothing. Is she a player or an observer? Maybe both? Kerry Pieri
Although we often get tips from Chanel’s invitations on how the Grand Palace will be transformed into the latest exhibition, this season, the company released teaser videos of Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin. The film highlights the classic works of French trendy actresses Romy Schneider, Anna Karina and Jeanne Moreau, such as La Piscine by Jacques Deray. Jean-Luc Godard’s “Can’t breathe, women are women, despise and Pierrot LeFou”; and the gallows elevator by Louis Malle. The invitation letter showed that Chanel was written with lights such as the Hollywood sign, clearly showing that Virginie Viard was inspired by the cinema in the spring of 2021. Gabrielle Chanel and Karl Lagerfeld have dressed so many actresses in movies and real life,” said Viad. “I’m thinking about people who make us dream so. But don’t want to copy. Don’t fall into old-fashioned references. I also hope it is also very happy, colorful and full of vitality. “The collection is delightful and youthful, with T-shirts printed with Chanel letters (such as neon lights), veteran Hollywood black and white dresses worth seeing, lazy denim, leather shorts and pink Capri pants, and a tweed suit. If we expect the kind of optimism that only Hollywood can uphold, maybe the actress may need the entire press conference or every part of a woman’s life. Kerry Pieri (Kerry Pieri)
Rokh has formed an all-female army since ancient times, gathering women equipped with collars, sleeves and bodies of different centuries. These are the Valkyries in leather belts, with violent and proud skirts, fluffy sleeves and wide lace collars. This spectacle reminds you of why fashion shows can be so magical. Clothes don’t look like this in real life-the background looks like a lively battlefield after the battle-but that doesn’t mean they shouldn’t feel that way. Even if they become beautiful dresses in sandals or tops and stuffed with their favorite denim, they will always retain the magic that women have always been warriors. No matter where you are, whatever you wear, something that makes you feel powerful is the key. Leah Melby Clinton
Xuly Bët has something for everyone. Casual, oversized suit? you are right. Bold graphic printing? why not. Denim on denim? of course. This range is partly due to Lamine Badiane Kouyaté’s focus on upgrading, but don’t mistake it for accidental. The vibrant hodgepodge reveals a brand that wants to attract a variety of dressing tables. Take the use of the entire white button as an example. Its appearance was worn on the neck at one time, the other seemed to be barely tied to the belly button, and the third was placed under the holographic gold tights. There are clothes suitable for club kids, prep students, artists or fill-in experts. To become a Xuly Bët person, you must do it. And be part of this revolution: the show was performed in a soundtrack by the radical poet Michaela Angela Davis, to praise the audience for listening to the reshaping and reconstruction taking place around us. Leah Melby Clinton
The invitation to the Giambattista Valli show (or even the virtual show) promises to bring bubble sweets, red carpet must-haves and romantic bits and pieces. The latter were delivered in droves to Valli’s virtual performance in the spring of 2021, but the frills beside them were fussed and costumed. Instead, there are small skirt suits, spider silk dresses in pastels, and a Valli version of streetwear (the brand’s graphic T-shirts, bucket hats and oversized handbags) designed to fit at home but The woman shop that still wants. It seems that big figures in the fashion industry and environmental masters are retaining his measurement of high fashion, turning his ready-to-wear range into: ready-to-wear, not dresses, dances or parties, but in real life, travel and parties have been Gradually reduce to a minimum. Nowadays, there may not be many places to wear a thin tulle ball gown, but Valli is ready to meet his clients because they are in a pandemic world. After all, when he stays at home and holds smaller parties, his women still want to look feminine, fashionable, and obviously a bit sexy and avant-garde. Kelly Goldberg
The obsession with color made Albert Kriemler the work of painter and sculptor Imi Knoebel, with whom he collaborated this season. Kreimler wrote in his recording of the show: “Color is the most important thing to me, this season is more than ever.” For Ms. Akris, it seems that all is full of energy (even in the dark The colors in the light will bring her from the darkness into the light. The house showcased six exteriors in collaboration with Knoebel to kick off in the spring of 2021, followed by a series of pop-colored exteriors with patterns reminiscent of Kreimler’s Knoebel favorites. aims? Bring a new sense of movement, brightness and freedom to Akris women. Say goodbye to stiff, hard gray shades; this season: the brighter the better. Kelly Goldberg
Hidenori Kumakiri used the pedigree in Comme des Garçons’ brand “Beautiful People”, which researches “beauty hidden between two opposite concepts” every season. The spring of 2021 will focus on our disintegrated world, where we are isolated at home like “fragments in a museum.” Xiong Muli asked: “What if clothes become our habitat?” The result? Style and shape with a new look, a jacket carefully designed with decorative fabrics, a final look with a headrest, and a pillow core. These components are designed to flow, reconfiguring themselves as the wearer sits, stands, and moves. Beautiful people ask you to think about it. When you sit down, a skirt turns into a sofa and a piece of clothing turns into an armchair, and this is back to when you stood up and bravely walked into the world. This collection has the same high fashion and comfort, allowing us to dream when whims, fantasy and drama are fleeting. Kelly Goldberg
The first series of Matthew Williams as the creative director of Givenchy was inspired by the lost bridge of arts (Le Pont des Arts). The designer said: “You can find the pieces of the puzzle from the symbols and signs, but don’t forget the reality of the person who wears it and brings it to life. Women and men should be powerful and effortless, equal and happy, which reflects them His true identity-and even more so. It’s about finding humanity in luxury.” Williams explored unisex clothing such as bold, tailored coats, and ultra-feminine on tight dresses But the strong fit silhouette is faithful to the house rules. Kerry Pieri
Julien Dossena’s 2021 spring collection started with a simple question: “What if you can reimagine the everyday wardrobe with an avant-garde attitude?” The designer’s task is to accept Rabanne’s future code. The history of chains and “non-wearable materials” makes them more casual and comfortable to some extent. Those reworked long chain armor dresses answered this question. These long skirts looked like denim, floral prints, leopard prints, trench coats, underwear and baby doll dresses (Rabanne’s casual style) and looked very long. Questions and answers. —Kerry Pieri
Some designers are preparing for their own lives, while others, such as the always imaginative Thom Browne, dream of spending 239,000 miles above the earth. Of course, the background is “the first moon landing game in the lunar stadium”. All cream and white collections are made up of tailor-made sporty looks including wool, seersucker, cotton and cashmere. Long pleated skirts, tank tops, cropped trousers and tops are just like avant-garde works, making people feel like rolling. Hey, except now, any time it sounds like a plan for us. Kerry Pieri
In the early days of confinement in New York, what I dreamed of was Gabriela Hearst’s hand-made inspiration in the spring of 2021. She said: “Grandma visited me in a dream. In the dream, I knotted a cloth on her back and made a dress on her.” This simple act provided a “feeling of relief.” Hirst has long advocated slow fashion as a way to cope with the climate crisis, and the series of brightly colored crochet vest skirts, tie-dye shirt skirts and cotton poncho (all made of cashmere) look like heirlooms of the future Will be passed on from mother to daughter. In fact, the details of the hand-embroidered shells along the edges of the circular cuts and the straps of the two circularly processed schappe silk dresses were inspired by the shell bracelets sent to Hirst from Easter Island. Hirst said: “The craft in hand is our North Star.” -Alison S. Cohn
Last season, Demna Gvasalia brought fires and floods to the Balenciaga runway. This is an overly foreseeable vision of the catastrophic reality of 2020. In the spring of 2021, he proposed a way to reduce the environmental impact of fashion: redesign with updated products. Many pieces are made of patchwork materials (in fact, a particularly attractive leather skirt is some old boots, wallets and motorcycle pants stitched together), and a “fur” coat is made of laces Made. Gvasalia uses the power of classic, timeless clothing to pay tribute to the iconic fisherman’s net skirt of the founder, Cristóbal Balenciaga, whose net dress is made of basketball nets. He also provides many polished and comfortable home essentials, such as pleated soleil skirt-style sportswear and faux shearling bathrobes, which can be used as a grocery store jacket. -Alison S. Cohn
To say the least, it was a very surreal year. Surrealism is at the core of Schiparelli’s DNA. After all, this is the house of lobster skirts and shoes and hats. Therefore, art director Daniel Roseberry borrowed some of the favorite patterns of the founder Elsa Schiaparelli, including lobster, padlock and elephant head, as the series’ Oversized earrings and tops. He also added some interesting elements of his own, such as denim with paint on the back. However, this is not all wit and game. Remove the exaggerated styles, and you will get beautiful and timeless pieces, such as a thin suede trench coat and a casual evening dress in high-twist wool crepe. “The moment we all shared will end,” Roseberry said in his recording of the show. “But these clothes will last. I hope the Schiaparelli woman who wears them can be as happy with them as I am in the creative process.” -Alison S. Cohn
For fashion houses that focus on luxury, there is always a premium in touch. High-end knit, soft leather and silk blends, like hand-spun gold-these labels know the value of something that looks and feels sacred. Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski apparently thought about the power of touch in terms of locking, using materials that can be touched and making clothes that celebrate the body. There are beautiful smooth leather compartments, suede smocked coats and rich cashmere sweaters. The side of the sports bodysuit is hollowed out to enhance the sense of curve, while the cage dress with leather trim draws attention to the movement of the body below. A sweater, scarf in a circle, and pleated around the neck, both have the following advantages: when you are always ready for a waist and comfortable wearing, this is an extra rich knitwear. Moved and moved: the ultimate luxury. Leah Melby Clinton
When Joseph Altuzarra created the series, he was inspired by science fiction and real life, and referenced Dune and the strange emotions he experienced at various stages during the pandemic. The combination of the two produces beautiful works that are both relaxing and relaxing but also pleasant (contrary to the utilitarian works you put on, they are delicious knitted fabrics, soft leather and liquid-like silk that you will look forward to wearing ). The brand also has a lot of suitable main items, but the style is softer than the previous season, the size is too large and square, and has a sense of curvature of the 80s. This Altuzarra is still sexy, cooler, but warmer. This is the work of a man who has spent a few months. He realized how much happiness and comfort can be found in simple things. Leah Melby Clinton
The work done by Yohji Yamamoto has unparalleled characteristics and is so superb that it looks messy. You need to take a step closer to see how fine the fabric is folded and arranged on the table. At the opening of the spring, wearing a dress of lightweight fabric, it looked like a crumpled linen sheet torn from the bed, and turned into high fashion. Then appeared a series of suits made of rich silk, including some traces with white stitching, which suggested that the unfinished part was pulled directly from the studio. The end is the most perfect end, the exposed wire frame and sinister fabric spikes stand out like charming black petals. Peeling off the surface is a convenient way to show the structure-it is a beautiful thing, and it can create a poetic atmosphere of destruction. In the battle between light and darkness, Yamamoto ended everything in a high profile: the quadruple model wore white optical glasses to close the show. Leah Melby Clinton
Audemars Piguet’s latest styles were unveiled at the Ralph & Russo fashion show, marking the establishment of a new creative partnership between Swiss watchmakers and British fashion companies to celebrate their common dedication to craftsmanship. “In fact, our watches have been paired with [Ralph & Russo]‘s excellent designs by customers in real life many times, and they don’t need to wait for this partnership to match our two brands,” said the CEO of Audemars Piguet, François- HenryBennahmias, from the cooperative organization. The Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillon model uses a frosted gold case and is made with ancient Florentine jewelry techniques, which perfectly complements the dreamy filscoupé sunshine pleated lace blouse, and a mid-length skirt made of lightweight nappa leather And a cylindrical dress embellished with paillette. -Alison S. Cohn
Essentially, a new fashion collection is about creativity. The designer conducted exploration and playful thinking, and finally chose an entity representation that can be shared with others. Satoshi Kondo conducted at least five different experiments in spring, and the results are superficially simple (your brain starts to bend when you know what you are looking for). Everything should be disassembled, folded or rolled up, fundamentally creating the smartest portable wardrobe ever. Zippers and ropes allow individuals to modify the structure of the garment, but also to take it apart for transportation. Those parts that are not going to be disassembled are made of soft sponge woven, which can gently hug the body, and then shrink to the perfect proportion for the suitcase, in case we travel again in the future. Leah Melby Clinton
If you are in the market to include many standard capsule wardrobes of Parisian standards, then Alexandre Mattiussi’s “Ami” (screened by the Seine River, and in the oversized New York Times Square Playing on a projector) may be a good starting point. There are flowing peasant skirts and sexy gowns for hiding and hiding. There are macro gingham checks and dots. There is a very beautiful Belle de Jour patent and trench (it may also be suitable for Catherine Deneuve’s keen tailoring in different ten years). “In terms of film photography, I want to capture this kind of French imbalance,” Mattiussi said. “Paris is still a magical city in the way super-skilled people walk on the streets.” -Alison S. Cohn
Kevin Germanier’s fluorescent event in the spring of 2021 looks like it belongs to an upscale Las Vegas theater (but this unique type of secret door requires a password). The use of neon colors, high-gloss satin and Swarovski crystals does seem to be charged, creating that bold and dramatic style that can polarize the ready-to-wear. But despite all the inherent decadence associated with Renaissance sleeves and sheer fabrics woven from wrinkled metal fragments, Germanier is the opposite of waste, using only recyclable materials. This is not a solution to pandemic restrictions. Rather, this is a promise that has existed since the brand’s launch in 2018, which allows Germanier to feel like the fashion of the future from many angles. Leah Melby Clinton
Alexandre Vauthier maintains a relationship with the bold, usually bright, and sometimes dazzled 80s-influenced series. In the spring, the designer went further back to the 70s, wearing a metal layered dress, a simple super long silhouette, a denim look and a simple white cotton shirt, and a more Studio 54 look. When the shape of the Me-era of the face is out of date, it feels appropriate, but no one wants to give up the charm completely. Kerry Pieri
Loewe’s Jonathan Anderson made the far-flung screening look like a creative attempt, with real vitality behind it. His resort 2021 series came as a box for displaying paper dolls in boxes. In the spring of 2021, he evolved this concept into a “wall display”. It is actually a poster presentation co-produced with M/M (Paris) and artist Anthea Hamilton, full of dynamic and whimsical ideas. Send the artist’s portfolio with giant folded posters to editors, buyers and friends of the brand. The special offer also includes a DIY set: a roll of wallpaper designed by the artist, a wallpaper frame, wallpaper glue, brushes and scissors. There is even a beetroot aroma disc created by Thomas Tallis and a soundtrack of chorus sheet music, which aims to keep the experience aspect of the runway demonstration alive in a whole new way. The clothes themselves are loud, with emphasis on drama and sculpture. The message with balloon sleeves, cross-back skirts and other bold shapes is that even though this is our time to hide, we can still grow as big and thick as we want. Kerry Pieri
Rick Owens’ Spring 2021 fashion show reached a fabulous level in many ways. After one of the five rivers of hell in Greek mythology (and the river of blood in Dante’s Divine Comedy), he named after his collection Phlegethon. His blouse and shawl are matched with guard shoulders; stiff, cocoon-like poncho; thigh-high platform leather boots show tailoring exaggeration. It conveys the sense of hell on earth, that is, the twilight of the gods, or humanity in this case. Indeed, Owens is no stranger to the idea of the end of the world (literally and symbolically, darkness is embedded in his brand). In the COVID-19 era, this dystopian display reflects our time. . Wit: Each appearance is equipped with a mask. -Barry Samaha
Isabel Marant (Isabel Marant) understands her customers: how she wants a practical style, but also has a certain enthusiasm. From oversized blazers and denim with front hem, to ribbed sweaters with conspicuous shoulders and pleated miniskirts, her steadfast demeanor gives modern Parisienne chic style. However, for the spring of 2021, Marant is focused on fantasy (guys, we are still in the midst of a global pandemic!). She brings the characteristics of Xanadu style-imagine a roller disco in the 80s with bright fuchsia, lavender and candy red glitter effects. The intoxicating, escapist atmosphere coupled with heart-pounding graffiti and whimsical butterfly decals, as well as lively performances by dancers from the (LA)HORDE collective, run through the entire performance of Donna Summer’s “I Feel Love”. -Barry Samaha
Natacha Ramsay-Levi’s feelings this time have a collage and a layered feeling. It feels different from the previous season and heavier than before. Chloé has always been a woman. For women, the eyes of women here are through the traditional feminine and non-feminine silhouettes (natural waist and thick belt worn by flowing dresses; wide-leg pants and tailor-made Suit jacket). The work of American artist Corita Kent also contains textual information. His screen printing in the 1960s focuses on action and feeling, which is the same as the feeling more than 50 years later. Although the Chloé collection is suitable for you to wear clothes for work and weekends, it is not surprising, but what feels different here is the middle ground: work clothes appear from time to time, go out, talk and demand changes. Stonewashed gabardine shorts may be too casual for the office, but I still start business anyway. Consider this is a work uniform around 2021. —Leah Melby Clinton (Leah Melby Clinton)
Color-saturated, daydreaming color-is the first thing to look at Kenneth Ize’s spring collection. Those fuchsia, turquoise and iridescent stripes already resemble his logo, because he is a relatively new person (the fall of 2020 is his first appearance in Paris), which seems surprising, but when you When he learned that his focus on gorgeous shadows was not complete, there was no such thing. Not limited to your own vision. Instead, he devoted himself to celebrating and supporting the Nigerian weaving tradition, using his first income to open a factory in the north of the country and creating the fabrics he used. It is very special to hear the designer set out the blueprints they want to follow at the beginning of the journey. In his case, it is faithful to himself and his heritage. If anyone has any questions, please refer to the Instagram caption he chose to accompany in the spring of 2021: “A person behaves appropriately.” Leah Melby Clinton
In short, if all of us succeed in getting rid of the difficulties and the pressures that mark modern life, then fashion is fun, or should be fun. The task of reminding us all busy people to embrace the sheer pleasure of dressing is that Guillaume Henry happily accepted this task when he was insing the rope in the iconic French house and completed it with proficient skill. Looks beautiful, exciting work, it seems that every step is happy. Compared with what he did last spring, there are more fantasies spread here, with bright silk and satin, the most fluffy feathers and the most fluffy sleeves, all these moments. Whether it is a sign that Henry is fully embarking on Patou’s stride, or a response to the dull years, we will accept it. These are “Why not?” clothes. This is indeed the case. Leah Melby Clinton
The eternal uniform of Bohemian hippies is free-flowing, whimsical and unhindered. The clothes should be loose enough for complete freedom of movement, open and ready for any decision to enter the direction. Here, Acne creative director Jonny Johansson is dressing up for 2021 hippies. He may participate in “a spiritual moonlight gathering” with iridescent, pearlescent or other parts that are easy to change when moonlight strikes. Los Angeles artist Ben Quinn provided this personal work. He used his experience in supernatural phenomena to create stars for flax and organza. Even if it’s not a full moon party, it’s eye-catching: the silky layering is divine, and an oversized suit jacket made of only the lining of a suit jacket is a non-custom tailoring you don’t know about. Leah Melby Clinton
Olivier Rousteing’s latest feeling is like she must live in isolation. Neon lights, cathedral shoulders and many sparks, all high-octane elements usually require viewers to get the most appreciation. Although it’s not surprising that Balmain’s sexy attitude won’t tolerate staying at home, there are other concessions that make you think that designers have recently become accustomed to a slightly more casual life (such as bicycle shorts and sneakers) ). In a very elegant styling moment, the whole set of shiny evening dresses displayed at the end are bare feet. This choice makes the smooth clothing occupy the center stage, but also makes people feel dynamic and real (the black tie at home feels bohemian , But the atmosphere is the best (no shoes). Leah Melby Clinton (Leah Melby Clinton)
The new Kenzo under the leadership of Felipe Oliveira Baptista is designed for the era away from society. Last season, the designer displayed his first collection in a French house in a sealed plastic foam, and since the spring netizen beekeeper’s hat covers half of the entire collection, it continues to maintain a pleasant vibration in the spring. Oliveira Baptista explained in his exhibition record: “The beekeepers with charming clothes and hats… strongly echo the fragility and distance needed today.” He It is also pointed out that the series is “an ode to bees and the regulator of the earth.” The focus is on all important pollinators in nature-facing survival threats due to climate change-due to the digital “cry” effect, in the archive Kenzo Poppy and Hortensia’s prints also attracted strong attention. -Alison S. Cohn
Last spring, when the Dutch were confined, designer Dries Van Noten asked a big question: What will be important in the future? Will there be fashion in the future? According to his and artist Viviane Sassen’s spring 2021 reading on the beach in Rotterdam, the answer is yes. He said: “I really want to make something’fashion optimistic.” Motivation is transformed into vivid and intoxicating emotional colors; common heavy traditional jacquard fabrics tend to float cotton yarn. Van Noten was inspired by the colorful experimental films of the painter Len Lye in the early 20th century. He painted directly on celluloid in the decades before the psychedelic movement. In fact, the simple stripes (the brand’s first product) that appeared on balloon sleeve dresses, belt jackets and swimsuits were actually fragments dropped from blinds, captured and printed. Van Noten put it best: “The overall appearance of the series looks simpler, but deeper.” -Alison S. Cohn (Alison S. Cohn)
If Thebe Magugu’s Spring 2021 Counter Intelligence product lineup swings between sharp, tailor-made clothing and smooth dresses that seem to have multiple styles, it is because it does. “Our direct knowledge of spies is largely due to their image in popular culture-slim, exaggeratedly dignified, stylish and detached,” said the Johannesburg designer and 2019 LVMH award winner. “The truth is that spies are everywhere. They are our beloved teachers, friends, and family.” Magugu’s collection is an ongoing exploration of South Africa’s traditions, culture, and ethnic dynamics, and this season from him A series of interviews with former spies who had worked with the country’s old apartheid government gained inspiration. The print features real documents, including a cup photographed with a cotton shirt and a trompe l’oeil polka dot pattern on a handkerchief hem dress made of fingerprints. -Alison S. Cohn
When we look forward to the future of fashion together, it is obvious that we will need our clothes to work harder and do more things, and we also need the pure pleasure we get from wearing. Coperni met the two challenges head-on, showing a technical sweatshirt that can resist bacteria, UV rays and wrinkles, while still perfectly posing itself into loose pants and tailored jackets. It is also sporty, with zippers, panelled leggings and high gloss shorts suitable for boxers. Even if the collection is displayed on a rain-filled Paris roof, there are definitely California girls who care (this is undoubtedly a problem when you remember the built-in sun protection feature). Leah Melby Clinton
If Marine Serre’s spring collection feels like a wardrobe in a dystopian legend, it is because it is more or less. The designer made a short film discussing the “urgent need for change and adaptation” as a companion to the series, and easily cast our clothes into tools that influence physical change (she also adopted masks as a fashion early on, they Will be launched in autumn 2019). Serre focuses on the interaction between creativity and practicality, hiding the seemingly smooth silhouette behind the bold style, and experimenting with biodegradable nylon and recyclable moire that can be recycled and reused. Fabric. Monochrome jacquard highlights the lines of professional customization: from Serre’s vision, it is suitable for the company’s robots, but it is also just a beautifully tailored jacket. The size of the moonfish’s skin pattern will fluctuate, resulting in an illusory curve effect (according to the performance description, “Utopia Enhancer”). Peel off the decorative layer and you will find it is simple. Leah Melby Clinton
From the small cuts of the razor to the folds of the folds, Alaïa pays attention to precision, and even the most relaxed pile is prepared with meticulous details to be mesmerized. This square-neck trapeze dress is designed with vertical scallops for a light and airy feel. The crisp shirt skirt is outstanding, the back is airy, the wide waistband tightens the folds, and the open back dress is shocked with deep red lining. Therefore, although this spring’s casual wear is more casual than what we would expect from the actual definition of physical fitness on the label, everything is aimed at women who cannot make their foundations basic. There are more day dresses and shorts than formal silhouettes, and one wonders if this is a decision for shoppers’ revised social calendar, because the parties in the social calendar are smaller and less grand (although each one is unique) . Even the image itself taken on the streets of Paris represents her future time when she will wear clothes on the sidewalk instead of at a party. Leah Melby Clinton
Fashion and knowledge culture often meet in Dior, and Maria Grazia Chiuri’s collection released in the spring of 2021 is no exception. The collection was proposed during a period of great social change. The designer who lives in Rome drew inspiration from the 1997 paper “To Cut Is to Think” written by the late Italian art critic and curator Germano Celant. The paper Passed away from COVID-19 earlier this year. Celant wrote: “Not only the language, but also the clothing.” “This is an intervention in the traditional concept of representing and seeing bodies or things, which creates a new sense.” Chiuri is the founder by adding shoelaces Christian Dior’s iconic Bar jacket brings a “new feel”, you can tighten the laces tightly for a classic wasp waist contour, or wear a loose lace dress and wide-leg pants. She also took a look at the clothes of her two favorite female writers-Susan Sontag and Virginia Woolf, who reinvented the simple white shirt (turned into Tunic or dress) and plenty of Heather fabric jackets, both of which stand out in the entire collection. The latter is paired with a coordinated peekaboo bra, very well matched with Chiuri. -Alison S. Cohn
Grace Wales Bonner showcased her spring 2021 collection through an original film by Jamaican artist Jeano Edwards and a digital publication titled “Reflections on Essence”. Bonner started a three-part series that explored the water seepage link between Britain and the Caribbean last season. The essence is the second in the triptych and explores the Jamaican ballroom music scene in the early 1980s. For the men’s clothing in this series, this means the need to redesign and reinterpret Adidas sportswear and other sports suits. Shirts and tailors are dotted with more soft silk and crochet to make women’s appearance more glamorous, all in soft, relaxed white, cream and black tones. Kerry Pieri
Cecilie Bahnsen (Cecilie Bahnsen) is an intellectual romantic, who infused a calm and lasting thing into an ethereal beauty. In this series, the Copenhagen designer focuses on “a woman who travels through the landscape” and is inspired by Hashimoto Shoko’s black and white portraits of Goze musicians in the 70s, James Turrell’s immersive lighting installations and PS Summer Night Krøyer painting by the sea in Denmark. These are not just mysterious ideas: Turrell’s colors are shown in bright pink and green fragments. But most of these collections are in black and white, which is reminiscent of the black costumes worn by the blind Japanese musicians and the dream gowns of two women walking on the dream beach in the photo. This is Creyer’s painting. They all look dreamy, like if the breeze is right, they might float. Kerry Pieri
Nanushka designer Sandra Sandor named the series Natural Order and studied the theme that designers have long considered: the relationship between humans and the natural world. She has created a series that is approximately 48% sustainable. Her iconic oversized vegan leather jacket is mixed with knitted suits and backless dresses, inspired by landscapes, browns, greens and sky blues. Shoes, bags and hats bring drama, and fans of her Instagram obsession will fall in love with her. Kerry Pieri
Christelle Kocher focused on injecting new vitality into life this spring, first studying the old concept of natural fashion shows through the lens of the global pandemic. Although she did not change the format, she framed it from a new perspective: the performance involved emotions and movements, ghosts and dreams, and necessary forms of resistance. She also revealed the new look of streetwear, the mid-stream of these two series, Zhu has reconsidered their overall style. Smooth leather and fine lace smooth out the sporty silhouette, while slipping, natural and delicate, somehow more fragile. Probably because they look like they were pulled out of grandmother’s underwear drawer and then reprocessed into intimate haute couture handmade works close to the skin. When a performance in real life feels novel, more clothes are needed to decorate it than ever before. Leah Melby Clinton
Post time: Dec-23-2020